Hakushu Distiller's Reserve

It's been a busy week, so I'm pulling out an old tasting note on a new whisky - the Hakushu Distiller's Reserve.

The Distiller's Reserves from Hakushu and Yamazaki are meant to become the new entry level malt for the two distilleries respectively, replacing the 12-year-olds that used to be their entry level offering. Reception has been pretty mixed for both. Some see it as a watering down of good, aged whiskies to feed a burgeoning market, while others see it as a welcome step to make good single malts more accessible, both in terms of quantity and price. Both DRs claim to contain some old whisky. That may well be true, but a simple tasting will reveal that the DRs are much younger than they are old. If only distilleries reveal average ages of the whiskies that go into the final product...

The 12 -year-old Yamazaki was fairly accomplished, while my impression of the DR wasn't as good. It felt like an uncomfortable blend, something trying to be both young and old at the same time. There were some touches of older Yamazaki, but somehow, that took the effervescence off what could have been a good, young Yamazaki without really adding the benefits of age.

The Hakushu Distiller's Reserve, on the other hand, was much more to my liking.

Hakushu Distiller's Reserve (40% abv)

Colour - Light gold, very close to straw

Nose - Young whisky indeed. The alcohol is prickly on the nose. With some time, the nose starts to develop. The forests that you can find in the 18 are here as well. In fact, it seems fresher. The Hakushu 18 smells like pine sap. This one smells like the forest, untouched. Pine, green, unripe pears, and the crisp smell of clear mineral/river water.

Palate - the alcohol is sharper than in the 18, like it was in the nose. But that's to be expected. Pine leaves, mineral water crispness, and some earthy notes too. Not sure if I would describe that as soft peat or soil, but something from the ground, basically. A little bit of lemons; sharp but citrusy. And, surprisingly, a sudden, quick flash of the mature oak and ripe pears more associated with the Hakushu 18. This flash of maturity disappears quickly, and the young age of the DR reasserts itself.

Finish - Short, and a little prickly. Spice and alcohol leaves its mark, but disappears quickly. This is a pretty short finish, with a little more alcohol burn than spice. Some oak at the back just before it goes down and disappears.

Overall - I like this. The Hakushu DR, if drunk and tasted in its own right, is good and enjoyable. It isn't in the same style as the old Scotches, of which the Yamazaki is probably closer in style to. But I would say that the Hakushu feels more like an attempt at Japanese whisky with a Japanese twist in its flavour. More Japanese green tea and less English Breakfast, if such a comparison is appropriate. I like this, and it's fairly affordable too.