Saturday, May 28, 2016

Quick notes on two Kilchomans

Kilchoman is the newest distillery on Islay. Apparently, the 'c' is silent. So it's Kil-ho-man, rather than something that sounds like a familiar Japanese soy sauce. Started in 2006, it's yet to have a 10 year old whisky. A really young distillery. But that doesn't stop it from producing good stuff. Kavalan's young too, and they've been winning prizes everywhere. Kilchoman looks promising, from what I've tasted. The two, Machir Bay and the Sanaig were tasted side-by-side at LMDW, who're generous with their tastings. Special thanks to Khai, who graciously poured tasting glasses and made good recommendations. Here are quick notes on the two Kilchomans:

Kilchoman Machir Bay

This is the first standard OB from Kilchoman, and I can see why. It displays strong Islay characteristics, yet also tries to distinguish Kilchoman from the other more established Islay brands like Ardbeg, Laphroaig, Lagavulin, etc.

Nose: Immediately smoky. It's ashy, and doesn't come across as peat immediately. The ash smells like cigar ash, which is nice. Vanilla rises up, as well as a trace of coconut. I'm fairly certain this was matured in bourbon wood. Which makes for a safe first offering from a new distillery.

Palate: Fairly robust, with cigar ash, coconuts, a touch of pineapple...vanilla sweetness adds balance. Though the sweetness does grow - feels a little like marshmallows. But this doesn't get cloying. The strong smoke sees to that.

Finish: Fairly short, on ash/smoke, a trace of coconut, and oaky.

Overall: Pleasant, and retailing at $120 from LMDW, worth a pop.

Kilchoman Sanaig

This is the second time I've tried the Sanaig, but I think I didn't write down anything for the first tasting. The Sanaig is a newer offering.

Nose: The smoke is much more restrained than the Machir Bay, or perhaps, the competing scents tames the smoke a bit. This one was matured in sherry casks, and it tells on the nose. The sherry influence comes across as citrusy red fruits - berries, and maybe black currant. Smoke comes back - cigar ash again, but this feels a little more...vegetal. Perhaps that's the sherry cask's influence on the spirit? Or perhaps it's a touch of rubber, fruit, and cigar ash mixing together.

Palate: I like this. Clean and precise. Sherry sweetness and cigar smoke goes well together, but this isn't very complex. It's got more depth than Machir Bay, for sure. Berries appear to be the main fruit in this, and the piineapple in the Machir Bay isn't really present. Or maybe the citrus just blends well with the berries. The smoke and peat grows. Yes, now that it's a bit more vegetal and less like cigar ash, I think it's easier to identify the peat in this. Some spice on the way down, but nothing too big.

Finish: Smoky finish that doesn't last too long. A little drying, and a light touch of rubber and wood.

Overall: Again, fairly pleasant, but this is not in the same class as the Ardbeg Uigeadail, if you're looking at a sherried Islay. The Lagavulin DE is probably the best sherried Islay I've tasted, and this is far from that. But it knows what is supposed to be, and it does its job well.

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