However, one of the reactions to Brexit has been noises about Scottish independence. That is something to be concerned about! What would happen to our beautiful scotches?? Let's hope our trade with Scotland gets better!
So, to...commemorate? remember? mourn? celebrate? this historic referendum (and it is historic. The last time the UK left a continental association, Thomas Cromwell was still chief minister and no voting took place), we shall have a Scotch whisky that's independently bottled. Nothing like independent scotch to...er...quell our fears over an independent Scotland?
Anyhows, I'm sure our friends in Scotland will sort out their own political future in due time. Funny thing is, the monarchy has been awfully quiet. I mean, Scottish independence isn't just about two peoples breaking apart - it also involves the dissolution of the Crown of the United Kingdom, which is, basically, the unification of the crowns of Scotland and England. Wonder how that'll work out.
Ok, enough spurious political speculation and bad attempts at linking my whisky drinkning to global events.
Ok, enough spurious political speculation and bad attempts at linking my whisky drinkning to global events.
So, the whisky for today is...Mortlach 21, by Gordon and Macphail (abv 43%, bottled in 2014).
Mortlach is not the usual Speyside. Actually, I think the Speysides I have been drinking usually have all not been the "usual". Sure, they're sherried and fruity, but the ones I've had (and liked) are different - more leathery, rubbery, somewhat dirty, meaty, very spicy, etc. The Craigellachie and Inchgower, for example. Mortlach, again, is different from standard Speyside malts like Balvenie, Glenfiddich or Macallan. It's supposed to be meatier, and more complex. How exciting.
A quick search online suggests that the Mortlach 15, also bottled by Gordon and Macphail, is the go-to malt for people who want to discover Mortlach. The 21 is often deemed to be less flavourful, as if the extra years have tamed the whisky somewhat. I've tried the 15, and found it to be fairly nice and easy, but not big enough. We'll see how the 21 turns out.
(Picture taken from Master of Malt as I couldn't find good lighting to take a photo of my own bottle) |
Colour: Light gold
Nose - Clearly a sherried speysider. Sherry, some sultanas, hints of leather, some suggestions of spices, but fairly assertive alcohol too. Is this really 21 years old? Feels somewhat younger. There's also a bit of meatiness/savouriness/umami in the nose. I'm sure this will get picked up again on the palate. After a while, there's some vanilla and honey, a few freshly pealed apples? This smells sweet. Thankfully, the bits of leather and savouriness brings some balance and complexity. Maltiness/porridgy notes come out after a while. On the whole, not unexpected, and fairly fresh and sweet!
Palate - A little sour on entry, more green apples than lemons. Sherry and leather makes the bulk of the body. Some nutty oils, and something that feels like a whiff of charred oak. Sweet malt comes to the fore on second sip, then sweet oak. That would be the vanilla notes then. Maybe some slight suggestion of a raisin - but on the whole, the palate isn't fresh fruit. There are a few dried leaves in this too - just don't ask me to name the tree species! The leather and sherry remains. A little spicy. I would say, nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper, but nowhere near the Inchgower. Malty, bordering on porridgy, notes when left to sit in the glass for a while. Surprisingly, the texture feels fairly thin, though it coats well.
Finish - Charred oak comes back, and some smoke, surprisingly. Rather long, with oak and spices, and...barbecued apples?! Is there such a thing? Sherry notes stay for quite long too, which is nice. Minerals and tannins on the side of the mouth. A touch of floral notes too, which is pleasant!
Overall - Ok, this is good, but not amazing. It lacks an oomph that I thought would be present in a 21 year old malt from a distillery known for big meaty flavours. Tastes like a fairly standard (but good) old fashioned Speyside. The finish is pretty excellent though, and makes up for the weaker body.
Compared to the 15, the 15 is fresher and brighter on the sherry notes. Spicier as well, but with less of the leathery touch, and the charred/smoked feel of the 21 isn't quite there in the 15. But, at almost $70 cheaper, maybe the Mortlach 15 by G&M would be a better value for money buy. I think this whisky would be better at a slightly higher strength?
Palate - A little sour on entry, more green apples than lemons. Sherry and leather makes the bulk of the body. Some nutty oils, and something that feels like a whiff of charred oak. Sweet malt comes to the fore on second sip, then sweet oak. That would be the vanilla notes then. Maybe some slight suggestion of a raisin - but on the whole, the palate isn't fresh fruit. There are a few dried leaves in this too - just don't ask me to name the tree species! The leather and sherry remains. A little spicy. I would say, nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper, but nowhere near the Inchgower. Malty, bordering on porridgy, notes when left to sit in the glass for a while. Surprisingly, the texture feels fairly thin, though it coats well.
Finish - Charred oak comes back, and some smoke, surprisingly. Rather long, with oak and spices, and...barbecued apples?! Is there such a thing? Sherry notes stay for quite long too, which is nice. Minerals and tannins on the side of the mouth. A touch of floral notes too, which is pleasant!
Overall - Ok, this is good, but not amazing. It lacks an oomph that I thought would be present in a 21 year old malt from a distillery known for big meaty flavours. Tastes like a fairly standard (but good) old fashioned Speyside. The finish is pretty excellent though, and makes up for the weaker body.
Compared to the 15, the 15 is fresher and brighter on the sherry notes. Spicier as well, but with less of the leathery touch, and the charred/smoked feel of the 21 isn't quite there in the 15. But, at almost $70 cheaper, maybe the Mortlach 15 by G&M would be a better value for money buy. I think this whisky would be better at a slightly higher strength?
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