Tuesday, August 2, 2016

Two Unrelated Malts - Hakushu Sherry Cask and Longrow C.V.

The second part of the four whiskies that were tried last Friday at Auld Alliance - the Hakushu Sherry Cask from 2013, and the Longrow C.V. Both whiskies are rather different, if that's not too much of an understatement. One is roughly 20 times the price of the other on the market nowadays, if not more. So, incommensurable drams, if not for Auld Alliance making it possible.

Hakushu Sherry Cask 2013 (48% abv)



Colour - Much darker than usual Hakushus. The sherry cask has left an indelible imprint upon the whisky. Not quite mahogany, but looks like...some kind of cognac.

Nose - Raisins, cherries, and some fresh berries. The sherry influence is rich. This smells very sweet and pleasant. Behind the sherry lies some more traditional Hakushu scents - green pine forest and clear mineral water (trust me, mineral water has a scent. I know because I can compare it with the tap water in Singapore, which contains several [helpful] chemicals). A little butterscotch richness as well, or maybe that's closer to...caramelized sugar. Mm. A nice, soft gentle oak. But while the Hakushu is still in there, the sherry is dominant. A drop or two of water should help.

Palate - Tastes very much like a standard sherried whisky at first, of the ripe and sweet oloroso variety. Ripe red fruits, very much like the nose. Raisins and berries and cherries, in that order please. The richness of the sherry covers up the Hakushu base a little, I feel. A little spicy, maybe cloves and nutmeg. Oaky tannins, without going into drying territory. This is very smooth, and rather sweet. With some time and water, the Hakushu spirit comes out a bit more. Pine and soft butterscotch notes. This is good, but I think its average age is younger than the Hakushu 18.

Finish - Medium length, with a little more spice, a little oak tannin, a bit more of that butterscotch smooth sweetness, and a bit of damp grass. Smooth, as expected.

Overall - Ok, to be honest, this is great whisky. Perhaps I would have liked it more with a stronger Hakushu presence, and a sherry overlay, but this works too. Sweet, smooth, and very well crafted. A stronger Hakushu presence would have made it awesome, as, in my opinion, Hakushu best showcases what I find to be most representative of Japanese culture and whisky. Green, fresh, complex yet subtle. The sherry treatment masks some of that a little too much, I feel. Also, the biggest sticking point with this is the price. Limited yearly release, but at prices of 3000 to 4000 in Singapore, I can buy maybe 5 to 8 great bottles of similar quality, with more distinct character. Great whisky, but not value for money. Far from it.

Longrow C.V. (46% abv)

This one is a double distilled Springbank (which is distilled 2.5 times), and, I believe, more heavily peated. Went out of production some time back. Should be good.

Colour - Fairly light gold. Not quite white wine, but close.

Nose - Mmm. The peat isn't anywhere near Ardbeg levels. Which is, in my books, good. Something that smells like...oil - slightly acrid but yet warm. Odd but comforting. Minerals, and a touch of...lemon?

Palate - The peat is a little more assertive here. Close to...cigarette ash? Let it sit for a while, and the peat retreats to reveal more lemon and lime (the stone, not the fruit). It is a little yeasty, giving it a slight sour, doughy feel. Barley sweetness if you hold it for a while.

Finish - Not long, but packs a spicy and oaky punch. Some tea tannins, from black tea, I think.

Overall - a good entry level whisky. Great introduction to Longrow, I feel. The Springbank distillate's character is there, and maybe a little "dirtier" with some darker chemicals suggested. But all's good and frankly, rather enjoyable. Great buy if you can still find it at a reasonable price.

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